In Spain, whereas the celebrations of Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve tend to be family affairs, the parade of the Three Kings (January 5th) is a very public event which generates a good deal of excitement and in every city, town and village the people throng the streets to watch the spectacle.
In Madrid, the cabalgata de los Reyes Magos is a truly magnificent event and this year’s parade, which we watched on television, was a stunning display featuring not only the three kings sitting on their their thrones in lavishly decorated floats but also a cortège of beautiful white horses and men and women dressed in sumptuous, matching white costumes. In the city of Granada, the kings were very politically correct because they were accompanied by their wives, while in Motril, the thousands of children lining the streets were thrilled to see the wise men arrive in a most authentic manner, sitting on camels. In the Sierra Nevada, 2,700 metres above sea level, the highest cabalgata in Spain took place and much lower down, in the little village of Lentegí, which is a short eagle’s flight from Guájar Alto, the municipal dumper was the mode of transport for the kings.
Here in Guájar alto, our vehicle was one of three pick-up trucks which were requisitioned to transport the kings around the village. Each was decorated with a tall canopy of palm branches, tinsel and paper on which the name of the respective king was painted. As in Granada, the kings, plus a few, sundry elves, were attended by their respective wives and with Melchior resplendent on his throne (a white plastic chair) in the pick-up of our truck and various children who had piled into the cabin, Digby led the procession, to the accompaniment of a cacophony of car horns. Negotiating the narrow streets of Guájar Alto, even at the best of times, requires great concentration so how Digby managed under such circumstances I can’t imagine. Every few metres the procession halted so that sweets could be thrown to the following crowds and there was much excitement as children and adults scrambled to pick them up. The supply of these sweets seemed limitless but I saw from the wrappers that they had been sponsored by various banks and big businesses, hence the extravagance.
At last, the kings reached their destination, the village square, where the entrance to the church had been decorated in readiness. Sitting on a specially erected dais, with the aid of megaphones, Balthazar, Caspar and Melchior took turns to call out the name of each child in the village and hand them their present. In Spain, children receive a special present on January 5th and this year, according to shopkeepers in Granada, parents were spending an average of 150 euros per child.
Most of the village had turned out to watch the cabalgata and a fire had been lit in the square where, after the distribution of the gifts, people gathered around to enjoy hot chocolate and churros (thin rolls of dough deep fried and dusted with sugar). In the majority of Spanish households at this time of year a confection called roscón de Reyes is eaten ; it is a large cake, in the form of a ring, filled with cream and decorated with crystallized fruits. In Spain, of all the sweet confections associated with Christmas, this is the oldest and, in fact, originates from Roman times. It was made to celebrate the arrival of spring and the ring shape represented the annual cycle; much later, as with other pagan customs, it became Christianized and, often, the roscón has a cardboard crown, representing the Three Kings, in its centre. Just as in England it was traditional to put coins in the Christmas pudding, a little ‘surprise’ of glass or porcelain was sometimes hidden inside the roscón.
Monday, January 14, 2008
Wednesday, January 2, 2008
CHRISTMAS IN GUAJAR ALTO
At midday on the 24th December, an extraordinary hush descended upon Guájar Alto as, suddenly, all the familiar noises associated with the normal, working day ceased and even the village dogs stopped barking. Not a soul was to be seen, save a solitary, grazing donkey. Everyone was indoors, getting ready to celebrate Christmas Eve.
In England, preparations for Christmas begin so early that, by the time December arrives, many people have worked themselves up into a state of acute anxiety but in Spain, as with most things, there is a much more relaxed attitude towards the festive season and, because there is much less stress, it’s a time of year which you can really enjoy. In this country, it is the custom to celebrate Christmas Eve (Nochebuena) rather than Christmas Day itself and Christmas dinner is eaten before the traditional Midnight Mass. When we came to live in this country, we adopted the Spanish custom of having Christmas Dinner on Christmas Eve and going out for lunch the following day. It is a very sensible arrangement.
At this time of year, it would be difficult to find a Spanish home without a poinsettia (flor de pascua) on display. Spaniards are very superstitious and this plant, which requires long, winter nights to enable it to produce its vivid, red bracts, is considered lucky. Afterwards, it is often planted outdoors, where the favourable climate enables it to grow into a rather attractive tree. Papá Noel (Father Christmas) is very popular and many people hang climbing Santas, with their sacks slung over their shoulders, from their balconies. Of all the Christmas decorations, however, the most significant is the belén (nativity scene) which is displayed in homes, schools and shop windows everywhere. These can sometimes be very elaborate, with months of work having been devoted to their construction. In Spanish towns and cities, a belén viviente, with people portraying the characters, is often performed. To northern Europeans, the idea of being born in a stable is shocking; however, it should be remembered that in many Mediterranean countries it was, until comparatively recently, normal for animals and humans to share accommodation and in the typical Spanish posada (inn with stabling attatched) the animals were often better fed and better housed than the people.
In Guájar Alto, as in other rural places, many people rear the odd turkey or two for Christmas, even if they don’t keep other poultry. We bought ours from the village shop and I roasted it in the traditional way with all the trimmings. As with previous years, Christmas Day itself was warm and sunny. We had arranged to join some friends for lunch at a highly recommended French restaurant in the popular coastal resort of Almuñecar. Everyone was out and about, according to custom, and the bars and restaurants were busy. Having said that, many establishments have reported a 30% drop in business this year during the run up to Christmas due to a massive clampdown on drinking and driving. Legions of police patrols have been on the roads breathalysing drivers and fear of the consequences - a likely prison sentence - has made this an un usually sober festive season.
New Year’s Eve (Noche Vieja) was, according to custom, very much a family occasion and in Guájar Alto, as with everywhere else, everyone was at home and the streets were deserted until after midnight. We spent the evening in one of the village bars and saw in the New Year there. In Spain, it is considered very unlucky not to follow the custom of eating twelve grapes ( one for every chime of the midnight hour ) on New Year’s Eve and so, just before midnight, we were all given a glass filled with grapes. Actually, it’s quite hard to swallow that many grapes in such a short time and I, personally, can never manage more than six before I begin to choke! Afterwards, we all wished each other a Happy New Year and, because we are an hour ahead of the U.K., we left early so that we would be in time to listen to Big Ben and watch the celebrations in London on satellite T.V.. The morning of January Ist, (Año Nuevo) 2008, was mild and sunny but, by the time people had emerged from their houses, nursing their hangovers, the best part of the day was over.
In Spain, the festive season does not end with New Year’s Eve because, on January 5th, the cabalgata de los Reyes Magos, which is a parade symbolizing the coming of the three wise men to Bethlehem, takes place. Even in small villages, like Guájar Alto, it is traditional for three men to dress up as the Magi and throw sweets to the children and the following day, Epiphany (Dia de Reyes), when gifts are exchanged, is a national holiday. Because the shops benefit from a post-Christmas shopping spree as a result of this custom, the January sales don’t begin in earnest until afterwards.
In England, preparations for Christmas begin so early that, by the time December arrives, many people have worked themselves up into a state of acute anxiety but in Spain, as with most things, there is a much more relaxed attitude towards the festive season and, because there is much less stress, it’s a time of year which you can really enjoy. In this country, it is the custom to celebrate Christmas Eve (Nochebuena) rather than Christmas Day itself and Christmas dinner is eaten before the traditional Midnight Mass. When we came to live in this country, we adopted the Spanish custom of having Christmas Dinner on Christmas Eve and going out for lunch the following day. It is a very sensible arrangement.
At this time of year, it would be difficult to find a Spanish home without a poinsettia (flor de pascua) on display. Spaniards are very superstitious and this plant, which requires long, winter nights to enable it to produce its vivid, red bracts, is considered lucky. Afterwards, it is often planted outdoors, where the favourable climate enables it to grow into a rather attractive tree. Papá Noel (Father Christmas) is very popular and many people hang climbing Santas, with their sacks slung over their shoulders, from their balconies. Of all the Christmas decorations, however, the most significant is the belén (nativity scene) which is displayed in homes, schools and shop windows everywhere. These can sometimes be very elaborate, with months of work having been devoted to their construction. In Spanish towns and cities, a belén viviente, with people portraying the characters, is often performed. To northern Europeans, the idea of being born in a stable is shocking; however, it should be remembered that in many Mediterranean countries it was, until comparatively recently, normal for animals and humans to share accommodation and in the typical Spanish posada (inn with stabling attatched) the animals were often better fed and better housed than the people.
In Guájar Alto, as in other rural places, many people rear the odd turkey or two for Christmas, even if they don’t keep other poultry. We bought ours from the village shop and I roasted it in the traditional way with all the trimmings. As with previous years, Christmas Day itself was warm and sunny. We had arranged to join some friends for lunch at a highly recommended French restaurant in the popular coastal resort of Almuñecar. Everyone was out and about, according to custom, and the bars and restaurants were busy. Having said that, many establishments have reported a 30% drop in business this year during the run up to Christmas due to a massive clampdown on drinking and driving. Legions of police patrols have been on the roads breathalysing drivers and fear of the consequences - a likely prison sentence - has made this an un usually sober festive season.
New Year’s Eve (Noche Vieja) was, according to custom, very much a family occasion and in Guájar Alto, as with everywhere else, everyone was at home and the streets were deserted until after midnight. We spent the evening in one of the village bars and saw in the New Year there. In Spain, it is considered very unlucky not to follow the custom of eating twelve grapes ( one for every chime of the midnight hour ) on New Year’s Eve and so, just before midnight, we were all given a glass filled with grapes. Actually, it’s quite hard to swallow that many grapes in such a short time and I, personally, can never manage more than six before I begin to choke! Afterwards, we all wished each other a Happy New Year and, because we are an hour ahead of the U.K., we left early so that we would be in time to listen to Big Ben and watch the celebrations in London on satellite T.V.. The morning of January Ist, (Año Nuevo) 2008, was mild and sunny but, by the time people had emerged from their houses, nursing their hangovers, the best part of the day was over.
In Spain, the festive season does not end with New Year’s Eve because, on January 5th, the cabalgata de los Reyes Magos, which is a parade symbolizing the coming of the three wise men to Bethlehem, takes place. Even in small villages, like Guájar Alto, it is traditional for three men to dress up as the Magi and throw sweets to the children and the following day, Epiphany (Dia de Reyes), when gifts are exchanged, is a national holiday. Because the shops benefit from a post-Christmas shopping spree as a result of this custom, the January sales don’t begin in earnest until afterwards.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
