CHRISTMAS IN GUAJAR ALTO

At midday on the 24th December, an extraordinary hush descended upon Guájar Alto as, suddenly, all the familiar noises associated with the normal, working day ceased and even the village dogs stopped barking. Not a soul was to be seen, save a solitary, grazing donkey. Everyone was indoors, getting ready to celebrate Christmas Eve.
In England, preparations for Christmas begin so early that, by the time December arrives, many people have worked themselves up into a state of acute anxiety but in Spain, as with most things, there is a much more relaxed attitude towards the festive season and, because there is much less stress, it’s a time of year which you can really enjoy. In this country, it is the custom to celebrate Christmas Eve (Nochebuena) rather than Christmas Day itself and Christmas dinner is eaten before the traditional Midnight Mass. When we came to live in this country, we adopted the Spanish custom of having Christmas Dinner on Christmas Eve and going out for lunch the following day. It is a very sensible arrangement.
At this time of year, it would be difficult to find a Spanish home without a poinsettia (flor de pascua) on display. Spaniards are very superstitious and this plant, which requires long, winter nights to enable it to produce its vivid, red bracts, is considered lucky. Afterwards, it is often planted outdoors, where the favourable climate enables it to grow into a rather attractive tree. Papá Noel (Father Christmas) is very popular and many people hang climbing Santas, with their sacks slung over their shoulders, from their balconies. Of all the Christmas decorations, however, the most significant is the belén (nativity scene) which is displayed in homes, schools and shop windows everywhere. These can sometimes be very elaborate, with months of work having been devoted to their construction. In Spanish towns and cities, a belén viviente, with people portraying the characters, is often performed. To northern Europeans, the idea of being born in a stable is shocking; however, it should be remembered that in many Mediterranean countries it was, until comparatively recently, normal for animals and humans to share accommodation and in the typical Spanish posada (inn with stabling attatched) the animals were often better fed and better housed than the people.
In Guájar Alto, as in other rural places, many people rear the odd turkey or two for Christmas, even if they don’t keep other poultry. We bought ours from the village shop and I roasted it in the traditional way with all the trimmings. As with previous years, Christmas Day itself was warm and sunny. We had arranged to join some friends for lunch at a highly recommended French restaurant in the popular coastal resort of Almuñecar. Everyone was out and about, according to custom, and the bars and restaurants were busy. Having said that, many establishments have reported a 30% drop in business this year during the run up to Christmas due to a massive clampdown on drinking and driving. Legions of police patrols have been on the roads breathalysing drivers and fear of the consequences - a likely prison sentence - has made this an un usually sober festive season.
New Year’s Eve (Noche Vieja) was, according to custom, very much a family occasion and in Guájar Alto, as with everywhere else, everyone was at home and the streets were deserted until after midnight. We spent the evening in one of the village bars and saw in the New Year there. In Spain, it is considered very unlucky not to follow the custom of eating twelve grapes ( one for every chime of the midnight hour ) on New Year’s Eve and so, just before midnight, we were all given a glass filled with grapes. Actually, it’s quite hard to swallow that many grapes in such a short time and I, personally, can never manage more than six before I begin to choke! Afterwards, we all wished each other a Happy New Year and, because we are an hour ahead of the U.K., we left early so that we would be in time to listen to Big Ben and watch the celebrations in London on satellite T.V.. The morning of January Ist, (Año Nuevo) 2008, was mild and sunny but, by the time people had emerged from their houses, nursing their hangovers, the best part of the day was over.
In Spain, the festive season does not end with New Year’s Eve because, on January 5th, the cabalgata de los Reyes Magos, which is a parade symbolizing the coming of the three wise men to Bethlehem, takes place. Even in small villages, like Guájar Alto, it is traditional for three men to dress up as the Magi and throw sweets to the children and the following day, Epiphany (Dia de Reyes), when gifts are exchanged, is a national holiday. Because the shops benefit from a post-Christmas shopping spree as a result of this custom, the January sales don’t begin in earnest until afterwards.