SPRING WALKS 1

Some of the best walks in the province of Granada can be enjoyed around Guájar Alto, and this time of year is perfect for rambling: the weather is not too hot and the countryside, with the glorious flowering of spring, is looking at its best.

This week we tried one of the circular routes, a leisurely 15km which took us about 4 hours. It was a lovely day and we set off in brilliant, April sunshine, from the centre of the village and up the track that runs alonside the Rio Toba. Shortly after passing the spot where the river is dammed in the summer to create a swimming lake, we turned right and followed the lane that climbs up through the fincas of Juncales. This is a lush, sheltered location planted with oranges, lemons, avocados, olives, vines and nisperos. As you climb, the views are dominated by the peak of El Fuerte across the other side of the river. The track eventually reaches the pine forests and a T junction where we turned right. This is the mountain route to Pinos del Valle.

Through gaps in the pines you have glimpses of spectacular views looking across to the mountains and down to the village. As you leave the forest, the ruins of Guájar La Vieja come into sight and it was here that we took a right turn along a track that winds behind the Loma del Espejo, the escarpment which towers above Guajar Alto. ‘Espejo’ is Spanish for ‘mirror’, and the mountain is so named because, at night, it reflects the lights from the village houses.

Here, the country is arid, stony and uncultivated, and the vegetation sparse. We were surprised when we came upon big clumps of candytuft, an annual flower more often associated with sunny, English borders, growing out of bare gravel, in shady and inhospitable hollows.

Before very long, the scenery changes dramatically and we wound our way, descending, through sheltered and fertile fincas and ruined cortijos. The largest of these, in its setting of palms, is the splendid Cortijo de Chiron (see photo), now uninhabited. The primary reds, blues and yellows of the wild flowers dazzled our eyes. It has been a good season for butterflies, and we were fascinated by the dozens of painted ladies clustered around the tall, spreading clumps of alkanet growing alongside the track.

After a steep and winding descent, this track brought us out on the main road between Guájar Faragüit and Guájar Alto. Just a few metres down the road there is a popular picnic spot where we stopped for a drink and bocadillo before walking up the road back to Guájar Alto.

Next week we are going to be more ambitous and attempt the 20km walk through the mountains on the other side of the village.